Wednesday, April 20, 2016

McCall's 7246

Hello dear reader!

After a lengthy hiatus that went on far too long I've decided to get back to blogging my sewing.  I've still been sewing, but I just haven't been blogging about it.  In all reality, my plan is to do more than blog about my sewing.  I am a creative person I have so many different interests. One of the reasons I took such a lengthy break is I just couldn't reconcile with myself that fact that I want to talk about more than just sewing and somehow I felt like I couldn't.  This is just silly. I realized that this is my blog and it really can be what I want it to be.  That is one of the fun things about blogging.

What you are going to see going forward is more of a breadth of content.  You can expect to see posts about sewing, knitting, painting, my kids and also my running and exercise pursuits.  I realize that many people want to only read about one topic so I'll do my best to organize with page links and also tags. Feel free to skip right over anything that doesn't appeal you, but I hope you'll find what I have to say somewhat interesting and I appreciate you taking the time to read.

Also, on a more personal note, my family has gone through some major changes in the past two years.  One year ago we left my beloved Bend, Or and moved to the greater Portland area.  Job prospects are just so bleak in Bend and we had to face the fact that financially, Bend is a difficult place to make a living.

I also we had our second child, James in December 2014.  I feel so lucky to have my healthy and happy little family.

So, without further ado I will get into my latest project, which is McCall's 7246.  This is a Melissa Watson for Palmer/Pletsch pattern which means it includes some extra fitting instruction and tips for using the Palmer/Pletsch tissue fitting method.  I tried out the tissue fitting method on this dress and found it worked fairly well, but in all honesty there are still fitting issues that sometimes don't become obvious until you're wearing your fashion fabric.

I had the pleasure of meeting Patti Palmer and Melissa Watson at the Sewing and Stitchery Expo in February.  The expo is incidentally in my hometown and I look forward to going every year.  It's full of great vendors and some excellent classes.  I also look forward to seeing the McCall's fashion shows.  My mother actually took the living fitting class where Patti and Melissa demonstrated the Palmer/Pletsch method live.  She said it was really informative and a great class.  I hope I get a chance to take it also next year.  Craftsy has the Palmer/Pletsch tissue fitting video classes.  I've got them in my wishlist to purchase someday.  Has anyone taken them?  What did you think?

While at the sewing expo I grabbed one of the FabricMart kits for this dress before even being aware of the Fit-Along that Melissa and Julie were hosting. 

The fabric kit I purchased is a poly/rayon/lycra double-knit that is quite stable and actually pretty warm.  This certainly isn't a summer weight fabric so I decided it would be best with the long sleeve version.

I cut my pattern in a straight size 12 and did the tissue fit from there.  I took out 2 of the 3 front pleats from the bodice to give me more room in the tummy and then I added back the same amount to the skirt so it would match in width.  Because my fabric is a knit, it was a bit forgiving on fitting in this area.  The dress is unlined so I serged all the inside seams to finish them.

What I'm realizing now that I wish I would have done is take out length in the bodice.  This pattern is drafted with the bodice actually hitting above the true waist.  Because of this, during my tissue fit I thought I wouldn't have a problem, but I'm seeing now in these photos that I really need to remove some fabric from the back of the bodice.  All those wrinkles at the back I suspect are due to bodice length.  This is not a new alteration for me.  It seems like all patterns are too long for my short torso.

Another alteration that I think I should have done is a narrow shoulder adjustment.  It seems like the sleeve seam sits way on the outside of my shoulder.  This too wide shoulder I think is also contributing to some of the bunching at the waistline. 

I'm considering making this dress again with another of the fabric mart kits.  I think the blue roses on navy is actually quite pretty. 

The sleeve and sleeve facing was a bit tricky for me at first.  I'm thinking of making a tutorial for this if anyone has an interest.  It was one of those steps I had to think about overnight before completing.

All in all, this was a fun dress to sew and simple enough that I think a beginner could tackle all the steps with ease.  It's also a good way to learn a bit about the tissue fitting method.  Although, with the seam between the bodice and skirt I think this is a more difficult pattern to do some adjustments.

FabricMart still has kits left and is actually hosting a contest for this pattern, if you're interesting in making your own.


All opinions are my own.  I was not asked to promote the fit-along or the contest by FabricMart. 

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